It seems to be the ‘thing’ now to
make people sit on shared benches, drink out of tumblers and have a menu
without choices. Flatiron in Soho is the latest restaurant I have visited
where this slightly ‘emperors new clothes’ approach is being pushed and because
of experiences at other establishments I wasn’t that much looking forward to
it.
I began my evening with a quite unpleasant
cocktail in the bar downstairs. Of course you can’t book here but we were happy
to wait somewhere with a decent looking cocktail list. The fact that they offered
the unusual approach of icing the drinks by chipping great chunks off a big
block gave the impression of being consummate cocktail professionals but this
was not the case. However, where the cocktail didn’t taste good it was strong (and it came in a Babycham glass
– old school) and by the time our table was ready I was buoyed with booze.
So the menu choice here is basically a
steak or a burger with a small selection of sides and sauces. Most of us opted
for steak with one exception of the burger, and we all wanted it cooked
different ways. In terms of the wine, there were two choices of Malbec on the menu,
which was a pleasant surprise – and one wasn’t a bank breaker so we opted for
that. It was good! Although having to drink it out of what was essentially a
school squash glass did ruin the experience somewhat (get proper wine
glasses!).
The food was swift – the little thin strips
of £10 steak arrived on blocks of wood accompanied by (small) portions of
eggplant parm, chips and spinach. Everything was cooked exactly as we had asked
and frankly the entire spread was delicious and lasted about five minutes – not
what I had been expecting given the terrible cocktail. The diner in our party
who had the burger even said it was the best he’d ever had.
When it came, the bill was not too
extortionate either – a very reasonable £26 per head for a bottle and a carafe
of Malbec, three steaks, a burger, four sauces and four sides. Pudding-wise
there was one choice on the night that we went (I assume this is normal) and
none of us fancied it so we left. We would probably have had a desert if there
had been another option or two (we just didn't want chocolate) so they’re kind of cutting off a mini profit
stream there.
All in all I would say that Flatiron is
definitely worth a visit (just don’t have a martini downstairs). It’s tasty, the atmosphere is lively and you don’t walk away feeling like you’ve just been
made a mug of by somewhere that is all style and no substance. But maybe take
your own wine glass…
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